Wednesday, August 6, 2008

Pepto Bismol, save me now!

Oh man...


I knew it was coming. I knew that sudden, radical changes in one's diet produces undesired gastro-intestinal results. It really hit today.I'm not feeling too great, glad I brought the Pepto. I've grown tired of being around porcelain.

One might ask, "Now Mike, was it worth eating all that crazy food?"

To which I answer, "Absolutely!"

I'm hoping I'll feel better tommorow. I feel like I might "Merlion" soon.


I did manage to go to the Botanic Garden today. It was alright, kinda chilled out, although a bit touristy. It was interesting to see all the plants, but my physical condition really limited me, and I left within 2 hours of getting there.
Food today was pretty unexciting. My stomach couldn't handle much. Pretty much had a breakfast of coffee and toast with kaya. I caved and had a bit of "western" food, mango ice cream on a funky, rainbow swirl/marbled piece of bread, making an ice cream sandwich. They seem to be pretty popular here, I see the vendor everyday doing a brisk business. I really couldn't handle much more than that.


I'm thinking I might head into Malaysia on Friday, instead of Saturday like I had originally planned. Still not too sure. I'll keep you guys posted.


That does it for me tonight. I got all the pictures up for the previous post.

Goodnight,

Mike

P.S. Thanks to everyone for all the comments. I really enjoy reading them!

Tuesday, August 5, 2008

Oh Crap! A Crocodile!

Or is it an alligator?

Hi everyone,
Today, Tuesday was a lot of fun. I went to Pulau Ubin. It's rural part of Singapore, an island about 1 kilometre off the coast off the main island.

Yes, rural Singapore.

I had to see it to believe it.

Singapore, as I think I have mentioned is very hectic and crowded. But I heard about this island you can visit that is part of Singapore and is still pretty undeveloped. So after a 20 minute subway ride towards the east end of the island, and a half hour bus ride, I arrived at the dock. It was quite an adventure just getting to this far, trains (subways) are easy, buses aren't. I waited about 15 minutes on one side of the road, only to find out I was on the wrong side, and had to wait another 15 before catching the right one. Surely I had missed at least one that was going in the right direction.

Anyways, I finally got to the dock. It was only a few dollars to get on a bumboat headed to Pulau Ubin. A quick trip over and I arrived. You get off at a little area with 2 or 3 open air restaurants, some bike rental paces, a police station and a visitor centre. Though there is a decent amount of tourism to the island, its not too heavy, and the fact that I went on a weekday probably helped. I saw very few other tourists in my time there. It was really nice to have the peace and tranquility after spending time in the main areas of the city.

I rented a bike and headed off. The island has a few villages you see as you ride around. It feels like stepping back in time.

I was able to get a lot of great exercise, and take in some awesome scenery. It's really thick tropical forest, and there are secluded paths. After riding a few minutes, I went over a bridge over a little stream. Then I saw it there in the stream, a crocodile (or alligator, I'm not sure). It wasn't a huge one, but about 3 feet is big enough. I stood there, staring at him for a few seconds in shock, then he dived deeper and I couldn't see him. I got to see some other cool animals. A big lizard walking along the same stream (it was probably 2 feet long). I saw mudskippers and birds and fish and more. I also saw at least 10 wild boars in a pack. Supposedly they're rather elusive, the pamphlet for the island says its very rare to see them, which made it all the cooler. I was biking down the path, and they started running across it about 50 feet in front of me. I didn't dare get any closer. I saw a few, and thought that was it, then a few more, and more still. I waited a while to make sure they were all gone, I hear boars can be pretty vicious.

Later, I saw another crocodile. This one nearly made me crap my pants. I was flying down this really narrow, really secluded path, close the the shore of this little lagoon, in thick forest. Then, outta nowhere, about 5-7 feet from me I saw this second crocodile go running off. I assume I startled him. He sure startled me.

I saw something else, no idea what it was. I got a ways of the main paths again. I had to park my bike and walk, as the "bridge" was too precarious for a bike. All i know is it had a huge tail, it was in the woods near me, and it booked it outta there on my approach.

In addition to the awesome wildlife, and great bike riding, I got great views. Plenty of coastline and lagoons. I saw a mangrove swamp which was really cool, they had this open air "tower" you could climb up to look over the swamp. There was also a boardwalk (no bikes) to walk on to go through the swamp. Another cool thing was this really long coastal boardwalk, I was there at high tide, though at low tide you supposedly can see all the marine life that gets exposed.






No one in sight



Anyways, I got plenty of time out there to chill, and not see anyone else, just staring off towards Malaysia.


Malaysia

I met a group of Singaporean guys (all retirees) who were also out for a walk. We chilled out there and talked about food and Singapore and travelling. They gave me some great tips. They had all sorts of questions for me, like about my trip. When they heard I was from near Boston, one of them mentioned the Big Dig! I thought it was pretty funny that they had heard about it (and what a mess it was). They were also asking about the food where I live and so on. It was a unique and great experience.

Late in the afternoon I caught the boat back. I stopped for Nasi Lemak near the dock, supposedly that's the area with the best Nasi Lemak. Nasi Lemak is a Malay dish. It more of a meal than just one dish. It has rice cooked in coconut milk, cucumbers, chili sauce, an egg, fried chicken wing, and tiny crunchy salty dried fish. Definitely not my favorite thing I've eaten. It was edible, but not something that made a good impression on me. I dunno what it was, just didn't like it.

I took a walk on the beach nearby as well. It was a pretty neat area, though on the main island, it's far away from the hustle and bustle of downtown.

I made my way back and pretty much chilled out.

That was a long post.

But, I need to inform you about the food, of course.

I have no clue what I had for breakfast. Before I headed off for my little trip, I stopped in a Hawker Centre nearby. I found the longest line and got in it. However, everything was in Chinese, no English. When I got towards the front, and they asked me what i wanted, I just pointed and asked for the same thing that the person in front of me ordered. It was interesting. I was given three dishes. One was these white, flat, chewy noodles with this sweet-spicy sauce. They were good for the first few bites, but after that, not so much. the other was these finer noodles, with lots of sesame and another slightly sweet sauce. This one was really good. The other was a rice porridge with scallions and little crispy fried noodle-type pieces. I still have no idea what this was all called.


No idea what this is called



Tonight (my Nasi Lemak was my lunch/dinner), I had an interesting snack. It's an Indian thing served on the street here. It's like a small funnel cake, fried tile very crispy and very greasy. Then it's submerged in this vat of thick, red-orange sugar syrup. Its drained slightly, and you eat it. It's made fresh to order. It's calorific. The crunchiness and the sugar syrup makes it almost seem like a candy, but greasy, and awesome :).

That about wraps up my day.

One other thing, I know this is a really long post...
I have to answer a few questions that have been asked.

The white stuff on the Sup Tulang-Raw cabbage

What is a Hawker Centre- A building in which a variety of food stands are located. They're very cheap and delicious. Sorta like a food court, but all the food is made fresh, by independent businesses. They often specialize in just one or a couple dishes. They're open air and very casual. Basically, Singapore wanted to "clean up" the streets. That meant getting rid of street vendors, but they didn't want to destroy all the great food culture. So they were all moved to these centres. They're called hawkers because they often "hawk" their food. As you walk by some of them will try to convince you to buy their dish.

What is a durian- A very very stinky fruit. Loathed by many, loved by many others.


Spent Durian shells



Singapore is a fine city.

Goodnight,
Mike

Monday, August 4, 2008

I Like This City

Hi all,

So it's been an interesting past couple of days.
On Saturday I went to Chinatown. It was fun to see, but honestly, didn't live up to my expectations. First of all, it's kinda strange that Singapore, with about 75% of its population being ethnic Chinese, needs a Chinatown. However, Chinatown is mostly Cantonese, whilst the rest of Singapore is Hokkien. Chinatown has some restored shops, restaurants, decorations and street markets (catering to tourists). It was cool to see the shops selling traditional Chinese medicine such as deer antlers and dried seahorses and much more. I did get to visit a huge hawker centre which I happened upon.
The highlight of my day was happened during my visit to the Maxwell Food Centre which was nearby (not the same as the huge one I just mentioned). There I got to try the quintessential Singaporean dish, Chicken Rice. I got it from Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice stall. This place is famous, believed by many to be the best in Singapore, and there was about a 15 minute wait in line. Basically, it's boiled chicken and white rice. The chicken is very flavorful and tender, having been cooked in a fragrant broth and then shocked in ice water. It's served at room temperature. The rice is very flavorful as well, having been cooked with the broth and garlic and ginger and so on. The rice is placed on the plate, and sliced of the chicken are put over the top, and it has some cucumber on the side. Its served with chili sauce and dark sweet soy both on the side. It tasted awesome. Really one of those dishes in which simplicity is the key. One of the best dishes I've eaten, ever.
The rest of my Saturday was spent hanging out near the hostel. I really need to be mindful not to overdo any of the activities, it's easy to get exhausted and overheated in this weather.
I did do some shopping for toiletries nearby at Mustafa Centre at night. Let me say, Little India is NUTS on weekend nights. It is soooooo crowded. Its hard to get used to how one walks around here. It's a bit of a culture shock, it really feels like everyone is trying to get around you and cut you off and get in your way. And everyone is doing it to everyone. It's definitely hard not to take offense, but really one just has to realize that it isn't being rude, it's what everyone does to everyone. There's just too many people for Western interpretation of etiquette to be practical.

On Sunday, I went downtown and walked along the river. It was nice, just taking a leisurely stroll. It is a little touristy at parts, but its cool to see the downtown and the water. It wasn't too busy, being a Sunday, which was a good thing. I saw Merlion, Singapore's mascot. He's basically a huge half-fish half-cat statute on the water's edge and he spews a giant stream of water out of his mouth. In fact, Singaporean slang for to vomit is "to Merlion."

Today, Monday, was an experience. In short, I'm now going to be on Indian TV. There had been an ad in the hostel looking for Caucasian and African extras for an India TV commercial. I answered it on Sunday night, and had to be there this morning at the theatre downtown. It paid a 100 dollars!!! Though, I had to pay $30 for the appropriate clothes to wear (I needed to get a long sleeve shirt and pants).

Here's the gist of the commercial...

It's for a breath mint they're introducing in India (I have no idea what it's called). Basically, the audience was a mix of races, but they wanted a strong Caucasian presence as well. The commercial was this Indian musician (whether he was a real musician or not, I have no clue) getting an award for artist of the century at an awards show. We, all the extras (about 200 of us) were supposed to be all the people that sit in the front at the awards ceremonies, like we were other people in the industry (this is what they told us). We basically had to applaud as he walked up to the stage, during which he popped a breath mint (which he kept spitting out, he said he hated it). Then we gave a standing ovation while he raised the award over his head. We had to be "enthusiastic."

It was kinda cheesy, but it was fun. And, I made some money too.

And of course I have to mention the food I've been eating the past few days.
Here it is in no particular order

Kopitiam breakfast with soft boiled eggs


Sup Tulang (Bone soup, mutton bones with bits of meat and fat attached, stewed in a hot and sweet bright red chili sauce. The best part is sucking the marrow out of the bones. You also get bread to sop up to sauce, absolutely awesome).Pig Organ Soup (Pork meatballs, slices of pork, pig intestines, pig stomach, pig liver, cilantro and vegetables in a flavorful broth. Served with a bowl of rice and a side of chili sauce. Really delicious, especially the liver.)


Duck Rice (dark, moist boiled duck served with rice. Much like chicken rice, but with the addition of soy making the duck and rice brown. Really tasty. Served with chili sauce and cucumber. Also one can get an egg.)


Fish Head Curry (What it sounds like. A whole fish head, stewed in a heavily spiced, thick broth, with vegetables like okra. Really, really tasty. The head has the most flavor of the fish. You eat all the meat around it and various other bits. Yes, the eyes are eaten, and really are the best part. The flavor is very concentrated in the eyes.)

Ice Kachang (A Singaporean version of sno-cone, but better. The bottom of the bowl has various ingredients like black gelatin pieces, sweet red beans, and other stuff I can't remember, maybe coconut. It's covered in a big pile of shaved ice. Then different syrups are poured on. Some fruit syrup, coconut syrup and palm sugar syrup. It's topped off with a spoon of creamed corn, yes, creamed corn.)

Friday, August 1, 2008

Can't... Stop... Eating...

Singaporeans are obsessed with food. It's everywhere, it's affordable, and most importantly, it's delicious. I am consistently impressed with the quality of the food and the pride of the people who make it. A lot of it is served fast, but is nothing at all like our idea of "fast food." Rather, its well executed and fresh. I could go on and on about this; I think I will.

Here's the second installment of "What did Mike eat today"

I woke up, and of course my first order of business was finding breakfast. I walked a few blocks and found a little kopitiam (Singaporean coffee shop). It, like everywhere I try to go to, was a real locals place. It was pretty basic, open air restaurant with tables coming right up to the sidewalk. There were 2 guys working it, they come up to your table, ask what you want, and they go and make it and bring it to you. There's no menu, you have to know what there is. Fortunately, I did my research before I came or else I would be lost.
I had some coffee with sweetened condensed milk, soft boiled eggs and toast with kaya. The soft boiled eggs are very soft, closer to raw then cooked, the whole things are very runny. They give you the eggs in the shell, and you crack em with a little spoon and pour the contents into a little dish. You season with pepper and soy sauce and slurp it up. The toast with kaya is basically white toast with a spread made from coconut and egg, delicious.

I had a mid-morning drink made from aloe vera and lime juice, interesting and tasty.

Lunch was a trip to a hawker centre. I had stewed turtle and rice. It was pieces of turtle in a fragrant broth with a few cilantro leaves and a bowl of rice on the side and some VERY hot chili sauce on the side. The turtle wasn't just meat on the bone, but also consisted of unfamiliar parts. They seemed to be fat, cartilage, connective tissue, and definitely skin. All of it was awesome.

For an afternoon snack I had some fresh fruit. Had some durian (which brought smiles and thumbs up from locals), mangosteens and rambutans.

I just finished dinner. That was a bowl of noodles featuring shrimp and pork intestines, along with some pork meat and greens. It was ok, not my favorite thing. The broth was really good, not a huge fan of the noodles though. I'm sure people are curious about the intestines, they were alright, a little chewy, not a ton of flavor.

I'm stuffed.

Well, I'll wrap it up here, because the rest of my day was pretty much just spent walking around and sweating profusely (I think I overheated at one point, from walking too much, gotta be more careful). It is really hot here, and really humid. And the icy air conditioning is a mixed blessing as it freezes all the sweat.

Now I gotta figure out what I'm doing tomorrow, maybe a trip to Chinatown.

-Mike

Thursday, July 31, 2008

Flights delays, durians and banana leaves

Well, first and foremost I'm in Singapore, safe and sound.

I was gonna fix all the typos on my previous post, but now that I look at it, it really captured my mood quite well. Here's the lowdown on what happened. I was scheduled to leave Boston at 9:40 pm on Lufhtansa, arriving 7 hours later in Frankfurt at 10:30 am local time Wednesday. Then I was to leave on Singapore Airlines for Singapore at 12:30 pm Wednesday, for a 12 hour flight, landing in Singapore at 6:30 am local time Thursday morning. Well, my flight from Boston got delayed an hour (without them ever really acknowledging it on the departures). Additionally, for reasons unknown to me, the plane took a "more northerly route", thus adding an additional hour and a half. Do the math, thats arriving 2 and a half hours late in Frankfurt where I was supposed to have a 2 hour layover. So, after standing in line for an hour and half with 100s of other frustrated Lufthansa customers (for this and other reasons), they finally booked my on a Qantas flight leaving at midnight (Wed night/Thurs morning) direct to Singapore (12 hr flight). So I was in the Frankfurt airport for about 11 hours. It wasn't fun. I was exhausted. I had planned to stay up on my Boston-Frankfurt flight, so I could sleep on my Frankfurt-Singapore one, and thus be well rested, and arrive in the morning. Well that backfired. I did sleep 1 hour on my Boston-Frankfurt when I noticed what might happen. But basically, until I fell asleep on my Frankfurt-Singapore flight, I had been up for 32 hours with a 1 hour nap in there.
Well I made it to Singapore, my flight landed around 6:00 pm (Thursday). Its now 10:45 pm. I know I'll be able to sleep tonight too. Good thing is, I got so disoriented through all this hooplah, my body believes whatever time I tell it to believe, it feels like 10:45 pm.
I made my way to the hostel from the airport via MRT (Singapore skyrail/subway). I checked into my hostel, nothing fancy, but it seems safe and clean. Fortunately they have a little internet room which from which I'm writing this.

SINGAPORE ROCKS!

In the time between when I checked in and now, I've been exploring the neighborhood I'm in, Little India. I can see there's an array of influences making this a really cool city (though, quite hot and humid at the same time). Obviously, Indian is the primary influence around here, and I like it. All sorts of shops, restaurants and more. You hear the call to prayer blasting in the streets at the appropriate time.
And of course, I eat.
I went to this little hawker center, and there was a fruit stand. And that fruit stand had durian. and you better believe it, I ate that durian. The stand was run by (I assume) a husband and wife team. They were more than eager to prepare the durian for me. They have a bucket of water they pour over your hands so you can "wash" them. You pick out a durian, and pay by weight. They appropriately suggested a small one, about 1 kilo (by far most of the weight is shell/spikes and other hard stuff), they knew this was my first time trying one. And it only cost 5 Singapore dollars (about $4 US). There's 3 lobes inside this thing. Its kinda hard to explain. Anyways by cutting through the "shell" they pry the whole thing apart into 3 pieces, and expose the lobes (what I call them ,basically the part you eat). Inside each lobe is a large seed which you cant eat, so you eat the soft stuff around the seed (I have no idea if this makes sense).
First of all, let me say, I did indeed enjoy it.
Well, people try to describe its taste and texture, which is hard to do. Nonetheless, I'll give it a shot. Its like cooked onions, sweet custard, and very soft ripe cheese all mixed together, and with a very slight fruitiness. That being said, there's nothing I've had quite like it.
The couple at the fruit stand were funny. Before I was to set down at one of the tables in the hawker center in which they were located, they had my try it right there, behind their stand, which butted up to a side street (the center is open air). I assume they did this to see my reaction; they were very friendly. They told me to ignore the smell, which, as it is infamous for, is absolutely horrendous (not allowed on trains, in hotels etc.). Well, it tasted awesome. I had to take little bites at a time, because it is pretty strong tasting. Nonetheless I ate 2 and a half lobes (couldn't quite finish it , too much of a good thing).

I also took part in another food experience I wanted to try. A banana leaf restaurant. It's basically a meal, of which rice is the center, served on a piece of banana leaf. Banana leaves are very large and were cut into rectangular pieces roughly equivalent in size to a larger plate. So you get a nice pile of white rice (which they add to, free of charge, out of a large serving bowl they bring around, as you eat). Around the rice, on the banana leaf, are 4 different, small piles of items relevant to what you ordered. I got the vegetarian, so they were 4 different vegetable items. There was also fish and chicken as well as plenty of non-rice dishes. One was like squash cooked with lots of spices, another was raw onions and cucumber and such in yogurt, and so on. Additionally you get 3 small cups, each containing a different "gravy". One was lentil based, thick and yummy. Another was thin, spiced, and very sour. The other was kinda thick and dragon's breath spicy.

I really liked the lentil one, though they were all delicious. But basically, you pour some of the gravy on some on your rice (you pour different ones on different parts of your rice and so on and so forth, all to your liking). So the rice is wet and covered in gravy, and you eat it with pieces of your other foods (i.e. my vegetables).

Something makes it really unique. You eat with your hands. Well, with just your right hand, as proper manners demand. So you grab rice and other food with your fingers and pop it in your mouth. It's a lot of fun. And of course, the food, as you might assume, was absolutely delicious. I'm sure I'll be going back, they're nearby and VERY affordable.

So despite my hectic time getting here, I am absolutely loving it so far. I am stuffed. I'm pretty tired. I'm excited for the rest of my time here. I see myself taking it pretty easy tomorrow; I got plenty of time. Did I mention how clean and efficient it is here? I didn't, but it is very much so, but I'll save that for another time. So far, I've found the people to be quite friendly as well, such as the guy who, without me even asking, informed me we had to change trains on the subway, as the one we were on wasn't going any farther (I think my complexion and big backpack prompted him).

Well that does it for now. I'll update you all soon enough. Hope you enjoyed reading, feel free to leave a comment.

-Mike

Wednesday, July 30, 2008

Strike

Lufthansa´s on strike. that means my planes are messed up. my boston flight was delayed an hour, theen they took a route that added an hour and a half to the fflight. that made me miss my flight to singapore. so here i am in the frankfurt airport. 330 pm local time. i got a direct flight to singapore on qantas. it leaves at midnight. srz for the poor tzping. i cant figure out this kezboard. z and y are switched. i´ll fix it later. just letting zou all know. i´ll arrive in singapore 6 pm thurs night. im rallz tired. 1 hr of sleep in the past 23. runnin out of time. bze

Saturday, July 26, 2008

Before I go....

Hi everyone,
I'm leaving in a few days. I can't believe it's almost here. My plane takes of Tuesday night from Boston, going onto Frankfurt then to Singapore. I have 22 hours worth of flying and a layover to look forward to. The 12 hour leg from Frankfurt to Singapore is the most exciting *sarcasm*. Fortunately, I'll be flying on Singapore Airlines, which has an excellent reputation (they even have free Singapore Slings!). An interesting note, due to the length of the flight and the disparity of time zones, I'll land Thursday morning around 6:30.

It's been over a year since I started to get ideas of putting together this trip. I'm just about ready to go. I finally got the last visa I needed from the Lao Embassy. I have nearly all my stuff ready to be packed, just need a few small things. All my other preparations are done (I think).

I've gotten quite a number of questions about my trip, so I figured I'd post a few FAQs here.

1. Q: Why did you choose Southeast Asia?
A: Why not? It's very affordable (perhaps the most affordable destination in the world for travel). I LOVE food, and Southeast Asia has some of the best. I especially can't wait for street food and Hawker fare (Singapore and Malaysia's answer to street food). The region boasts a wide variety of cultures. It's supposed to be pretty easy to travel around. There's a ton of history.

2. Q: Aren't you afraid of getting robbed, killed etc.?
A: No. Southeast Asia is pretty safe. Of course I'll be taking appropriate precautions. If it were too dangerous, I wouldn't go there.

3. Q: You're going in the summer?!?!? It's gonna be HOT!
A: No. Yes. While technically it may be summer (leading into Fall), in all practicality, it's not. I'll be in the tropics, so the four seasons don't really apply. It's the rainy season for a while during my trip. Nonetheless, it will be hot. Really hot. And I'm not a warm-weather guy. I love snow and sub-freezing temperatures. New England summers are too hot, if you ask me. Nonetheless, I'll adjust (I hope).

4. Q: You're going for 3 months?
A: Certainly, I'm done with school, I have no job, I'm young.

Well, I think that does it for now. I might fit in one more post before I leave, not sure. Anyways, check back soon, I'll try to give an update when I arrive. Feel free to leave a comment.

Thanks for reading,
Mike