Saigon!

Excuse me, I mean Ho Chi Minh City.


Xin chào (hello),

It's Monday evening here in Saigon.

The rest of last Tuesday was pretty uneventful. I wandered around the town quite a bit. It's a really easy-going place. I thought I was walking back to the hotel, but I walked too far. I kept walking thinking I'd find it. Wrong. I got pretty darn lost for a while and had to resort to using a taxi. It was pretty dark by that point.

The hotel was located right by this "pond". It wasn't really much of a pond, it was contained by concrete on all sides and had a big fountain in it. It's all lit up at night. It seems to be a popular place to chill out at night.

The hotel itself was pretty crummy. The bathroom door wouldn't close and the bolt lock had fallen off. The closet door had fallen off and was just there leaning against the closet. Though I don't really care for it, the tv got about 1 clear channel. The bathroom smelled a bit funny, and the tank was missing its cover. The flush didn't really work, I used a bucket of water. Oh well, it was pretty cheap.

The next day, I went out for breakfast at the market. I had a big, delicious bowl of pho. I then hired a boat. We bounced around the canals for a bit. By bouncing around, I mean we kept crashing into the trees and stuff on the sides of the canal and had to push against the trees to get the boat straight again. The driver wasn't very good at his job. There was a really friendly dog on board, though.

I visited a coconut candy factory in Ben Tre. Ben Tre is famous for it's coconuts, boats filled with coconuts are constantly going by in the river. I tried the candy which was great and bought a few packs.

All the friendly women at the factory, wrapping the candies.

The rest of the day was spent chillin. I visited a park. There, like other parts of the city, had some interesting statues. They're very much the communist style, power-to-the-people kinda artwork.

I'm really glad I visited Ben Tre.

A few guys at the river wanted me to snap some pictures of them working

Ben Tre coconut, a refreshing drink

Hi Ho! Hi Ho! It's off to work we go...

The next day, Thursday, I caught the mini-bus to Saigon (officially known as Ho Chi Minh City). The bus ride took a few hours, including crossing the river via the ferry. By early afternoon I was in Saigon.

This place is so cool!

This place is so nuts!

This place has got to be one of the most amazing cities in the world!

I really like Saigon. I can't begin to describe how chaotic it is here. There are so many motorbikes. I mean, there's lots of motorbikes in SE Asia in general, but Saigon is just crammed full of them. It's a ton of fun riding on one (on the back, there's no way I would dare to drive one in the city).

That's a lot of motorbikes!

Even the power lines are crazy!

After checking into the hostel I wandered out in search of food. It was pouring rain. I took a seat at a street stall. They had rigged up a tarp to protect from the rain. It was very busy, always a good sign. I had a few fresh spring rolls (not the fried ones) which were spectacular. They were filled with herbs and shrimp and bean sprouts. They were served with a spicy dark brown hoisin-like sauce with peanuts. I also had a glass of fresh squeezed sugarcane juice. I was still hungry so I ordered some awesome grilled pork. It was ground pork with lots of seasonings pressed onto a sugarcane skewer and grilled with a sweet glaze. It was taken off the skewer and plated and garnished with scallion and peanut. It was on of the best things I've had on this trip. It was really juicy and tender and perfect in every other way. My mouth is watering just thinking about it.

Best pork in the world

It continued to pour rain so I made my way back to the hostel where I took a nap. Later, I got talking to some other people in the dorm. There were 2 Irish (traveling together) and 2 Brits (not traveling together). In the evening we made our way out to find some dinner. They were all eager to try street food, too. We wound up at a 'upscale street stall". It was the same basic, little stools and tables out on the street, but with a menu. It was buzzing with locals, so it had to be good. Surprisingly, they had an English menu. We ate family style (that's the way to do it here when eating in a group). We had pork in sweet and sour sauce, a beef dish, a shrimp dish, frog in fish sauce dish(I chose that one), and a cabbage dish, along with plenty of rice (I can't remember all the sauces). Everything came with lots of vegetables, too. Everything was really delicious. It was the first time everyone else had tried frog, and though a bit weary of it at first, everyone really enjoyed it. We all had a lot of fun at that meal.

Frog leg

The next day, Friday, the 5 of us went on a tour to the Cu Chi tunnels (we booked the night before). The Cu Chi tunnels are located about 70 km outside the city. They were a network of tunnels used by the Viet Cong during the American War (as it's called here). Cu Chi was a strategic area during the war. Being very close to Saigon, it was considered to be a dagger pointing at Saigon. The local population supported (and was) Viet Cong. Therefore, the area was a major hot spot.

The tunnel system was very complex and allowed the Viet Cong to launch attacks on the American and South Vietnamese military. They were able to live in the tunnels, complete with offices for military, wells for water, kitchens, field hospitals, and bunkers located at different levels to escape gas attacks.

The tour consisted of a a variety of things. It was VERY much in favor of the Viet Cong, of course. Needless to say, it was harsh towards the American gov't/military of the time. There were a few exhibits of some very gruesome traps used by the Viet Cong. We saw a few bomb craters from B-52s. Of course, we could go through a tunnel as well. The tunnel was built for the tourists. The tourist tunnel was wider than the real ones. It was still amazingly cramped. We were completely bent over and squatting as we walked, and it wasn't much wider than body with. I am so glad I don't get claustrophobia. Even though the Vietnamese are smaller than Westerners, I have no clue how they actually spent the extensive amounts of time in those.

Oh yea, we got to fire guns! Near the end of the tour is a shooting range. They had a bunch of guns you can choose from. You go up to the counter, you make your choice, tell the guy which gun and how many bullets you want (in multiples of ten) and pay. I thought he would've handed me a voucher to take to the actual range where they would've loaded the bullets. No, they just hand you the bullets which you carry over to the shooting range. I wound up doing the Ak-47, the M-16 and the M-60. It was a lot of fun! The AK-47 was really loud. The M-60 is a machine gun, so that went off in no time.

AK-47

M60

I had a late lunch of a small fish and a bit of pork on rice. Simple and good.

That evening we all went out for bowls of pho. I had a spicy, thick one with beef. It was delicious as always. We all went out for a night on the town which was a lot of fun.

On Saturday I headed out in the morning to see some more of the city. I happened upon a large street market nearby, buzzing with activity. There was countless varieties of produce, fish and meat. I find it a lot of fun to walk through the markets. It really gives insight into local life. I had a great bowl of pho for breakfast near the market. I also enjoyed a ca phe sua da (that strong iced coffee with lots of sweetened condensed milk).

I went back to the hostel and the 5 of us from the dorm headed out together again. We went to Reunification Palace. Reunification Palace used to be the headquarters of the South Vietnam government and the home of the president. As chronicled in famous images, during the Fall of Saigon, North Vietnamese tanks crashed through the gates and troops stormed the palace, placing a North Vietnamese flag for the 4th floor balcony. It was at that time that Vietnam was unified as one country under control of the Communists. We went on an official tour, included in admission. It was very informative, and surpisingly, very unbiased. The place hasn't really changed since the seventies, including the decor. It was fascinating to see it for its historical significance, moreso for it being the headquarters of South Vietnam than the Fall of Saigon. It was a bit of an eerie feeling walking around, imagining what it must have been like. This was an extraodrinarily important place for the Americans since we were working so closely with the South Vietnamese. It only got eerier as we walked into the basement, which was a bomb shelter. It was under thick concrete and was equipped with all sorts of radio and secure communication lines and lots more.

After the palace we went to a really boring market.

We walked back towards the hostel. Along the way I saw a street stall. Something caught my eye. I wasn't sure, but something made me think it was what I had in mind. After the woman at the stall retrieved a guy nearby who spoke English, I had confirmation. They were a special kind of egg. Inside the egg was a partially developed duck embryo. I had heard about this and had wanted to find it. So I ordered one, with my new friends sitting around watching me. It was boiled (in the shell) and served standing up on a tiny cup. On the side was a bit of salt with black pepper, a wedge of lime, a type of herb, and a bit of chili paste.

I wasn't sure how to eat it, but out of nowhere appeared a Vietnamese fellow, probably in his fifties, who spoke English. Turns out he had studied in Nashville, Tennessee. He was very funny. In addition to telling me how to eat the egg (which I'll get to in a minute), he kept joking around. He, upon finding out I'm from Massachusetts, joked about being a rebel from the South. He did a Southern accent. Very entertaining. One of my new friends got it all on video on my camera, which I'll post when I get home.

For the egg, I cracked the top with the spoon, and removed it. There's liquid in there which is drunk. Then you dig in with the spoon, seasoning the spoonfuls with the pepper-salt, chili, herb and lime. a bit tedious. A lot of it was yolk. There is definitely a recognizable duck fetus in there. you eat the whole thing. Yes, there's little feathers, but they disintegrate as you eat it. You can see the little legs and head and eyes and everything else. How does it taste. Honestly, it's really tasty. It tastes like a really rich, meaty egg. Sorta halfway between an egg and a duck (go figure).

I didn't really do a ton the rest of the day. I can't remember what I had for dinner, but I'm sure it was good, I've liked everything so far. The 5 of us from the hostel went out again. We all said goodbye as the rest of them were leaving that night or early the next morning.

I woke up Sunday morning feeling a bit hungry. I walked back towards the street market and found a food stall. It was rice porridge. I've tried rice porridge before and haven't liked it, but I figured I'd give it another go. This rice porridge was delicious. It had all sorts of stuff in it. There was squid tentacles, bits of chicken, scallions, onions, and pieces of pain cruller that soaked up the porridge as they sat in there. It was a great, filling meal and a great way to start the day.

I got a xe om to take me to the War Remnants Museum (all about the American War). Well, the driver took me to a museum, but it was the wrong museum. By the time I realized that I was at the wrong museum, I had paid the driver and he was gone (he dropped me around the corner of the entrance, I should have known better). I hired another xe om to take me to the proper museum, which he did. I went around the museum for a while. It mostly consists of posters and pictures, along with a few war machines (like tanks and helicopters and artillery), and a few other exhibits. It's all about the acts committed by the American military, as well as its allies. It's very anti-American. There's also a temporary exhibit highlighting the friendship of Cuba and Vietnam. The museum is quite gruesome with the photos, enough to make anyone think. It doesn't really mention anything about North Vietnam and the Viet Cong's actions though...

I was halfway through the last exhibit, which was about the anti-war movement (where I think a bit of positivity is directed at Americans). However, as I was halfway through, they anounced the museum was closing for lunch, come back in an hour and a half. Yea, right. I left on xe om to go to Notre Dame Cathedral which is supposed to be beautiful. Once I got there, my xe om driver told me it was closed until three (it was 12:30 at the time). I had to pay him, he did drive me, but I was really pissed off. I just wished he would have been honest and told me beforehand that it was closed. Grrrr... At that point I refused to let him take me anywhere else (he would've made more money off me). He kept following me, trying to offer to take me to other sights. I was getting pretty ticked. He finally gave up and drove off. I unwound in the park nearby which was pleasant.

I walked back to the hostel. On the way I picked up some waffles. They're common here. They're sold by women who carry a yoke over their shoulder, one end has ingredients and equipment, the other has a little hearth with hot coals. They plop it down on the sidewalk and cook waffles in the little iron press over the coals. It's so French and so Vietnamese at the same time.

After, I made my way to another indoor market, selling a whole bunch of things. I wandered around for a bit but didn't buy anything. I did have a ca phe sua da, though.

I went back to the hostel and chilled for a bit. I met the new people who were coming in. I and 2 others (a Canadian guy and Swiss woman) went out for a walk and a bite to eat. I showed them the duck embryo place. They both tried them, one more hesitantly than the other. I had 2 embryos for myself. What are you making that face for?? They're good!

That was just and appetizer, and we went in search of a proper meal. We walked around quite a bit, finding a cool street market on the way. We wound up at a street stall that had rice and fried chicken, served with chili sauce on the side. That was cheap and tasty.

Later that night I went out with 2 others from the hostel (Australian and Swedish) to some of the bars in the area.

This morning, Monday, I woke up and found a great bowl of pho. After I did some boring work, running errands, booking a ticket and other stuff. It was just general upkeep for traveling.

It began to rain. I was feeling cold (yes, I actually felt cold here) and cranky and hungry. I then had an awesome meal that warmed me up just right. I was walking down this alley (which is full of small fronts of houses and shops and such), and happened upon this little street stall. It was someone who sets up in front of their house. But, since it was raining, they opened their front doors and put the tables inside. I had heard that they do this in bad weather, but hadn't seen it yet. Anyways, you're eating in someone's living room. It was very comfortable and the people there were very friendly. The food was just awesome, the perfect cure for the chilling rain. it was rice, some juicy chicken leg that was just so flavorful. I also had a bit of pork rib. That was just so awesome. It was really fatty (you know I love pork fat) and tender and so good. It was slightly sweet, and almost smoky. It came with a few pieces of really fresh tomato and cucumber. There was also some rich soup with all sorts of vegetables like potato and carrot.

After that, I did some souvenir shopping for a while. I also went on a nice walk again.

A little after I got back, some of us from the hostel (the Canadian and Swiss I had met before, as well as two New Zealanders) went to a restaurant. One of the guys from New Zealand had been there before, on a suggestion from a local. It was a proper restaurant and very good. It was very busy. I had a papaya salad with sliced pig ears (nice and crunchy). That was refreshing. I also had noodles with snails. The snails were quite a bit larger than the ones that the French have. They had a really strong flavor. It's a flavor I really enjoy, but is very off-putting to others. It was kinda like clams x 10 and chewier.

Tomorrow is my last whole day in Saigon, not sure what I'll do. I definetely make an effort to try a bunch of food before I go.

Wednesday morning I head out. I'll be going to Dalat by bus, about 7 hours away. I originally wasn't planning on going to Dalat, but I've heard many good things. Everyone who has been loves it. It's in the Central Highlands and is quite a bit cooler than the rest of the country. The scenery is supposed to be really nice, too. It's a wine producing area. Additionally, it grows produce that can't be grown anywhere else in the country. It's also famous for its flowers. It's a popular domestic tourism spot, particularly for honeymoons. Anyways, I'm really looking forward to it.

Thanks for reading,
Mike

I found this sign in the streets of Saigon.
It's a PSA promoting HIV prevention